Isabel Segunda, Vieques's main town, seen from El Fortín Conde de Mirasol, rooftops and flame trees running down to the sea

Getting around Vieques and Culebra

Photo: Karan Jain · CC BY-SA 2.0

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Your rental car cannot come with you, but on Vieques a jeep counter is 100 feet from the ferry. Who rents what on each island, públicos, and golf cart or jeep.

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Almost every problem people have on Vieques and Culebra is a ground transport problem wearing a different hat. The boat is easy. What happens after it docks is where trips come apart.

Your rental car is not coming with you

Start here, because it is the one that ruins a day.

Puerto Rico Ferry will not sell you a vehicle ticket for a rental car. The operator says so in plain words on its own FAQ, requires a driver’s license and a matching vehicle registration to buy a vehicle ticket at all, and says on its rates page that vehicles can only be brought onboard if they are owned by a resident of Vieques or Culebra.

Puerto Rico’s tourism agency says the same thing from the other side: ferry vehicle space is limited and “most rental car companies don’t let their fleet leave the mainland.”

So the plan is not “drive on.” The plan is: leave the car in Ceiba, walk on, and rent on the far side. The Ceiba ferry guide covers the crossing itself, tickets and fares included.

If the car is only for the drive to the boat, you can get to the Ceiba ferry without a rental car: the ferry operator runs its own ground transport between Río Piedras, in San Juan, and the terminal at $9 a seat, with a $30 minimum, though it is not sold online.

Who rents on Vieques

CompanyWhereWhatPhone
Coqui Car & Island Jeep RentalAbout 100 feet from the ferry port, and a counter at the airportJeeps and cars787-741-3696
Maritza’s Car RentalRoute 201, Barrio Florida, and in Isabel Segunda; free pickup at the ferry dock and airportJeeps and cars, since 1995787-741-0078
Vieques Car RentalRoute 200, km 0.8; free pickup at the ferry dock and airportJeeps, golf carts and UTVs787-412-8540
UTV Rental Puerto RicoRoute 200, km 3.2, Barrio FloridaUTVs787-900-2535

Coqui’s directions from the boat are the simplest on either island: exit the port, turn right and walk along the water, and the office is on your right after its parking lot. Coqui and Maritza’s both list 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., seven days a week; Vieques Car Rental closes at 5:30 p.m. If your ferry lands after that, arrange the handover when you book.

The small print, before you pay. Vieques Car Rental requires drivers to be 25. Its golf carts are gas carts on off-road tires with a top speed of 18 mph, every rider must be 10 or older, and it authorizes a $500 damage deposit on a card, with no cash deposits taken. Pay with a debit card for a jeep or car and it holds $500 as well, because debit cards do not carry rental damage cover. Its rental day runs from 1:00 p.m. to noon the next day, to fit guesthouse check-in and check-out, and an earlier pickup or later return has to be arranged with the office. When you hand the vehicle back, it gives you a ride to the ferry dock or the airport where it can.

Who rents on Culebra

CompanyWhereWhatPhone
Jerry’s Jeep Rental139 Escudero Airport Road, across the street from the airportJeeps, trucks, vans, golf carts and Kawasaki Mules, since 1985787-512-9331
Carlos Jeep RentalRoad 250 toward Flamenco Beach, and at the airportJeeps and golf carts787-742-3514
UTV Rental Puerto RicoExtensión Clark 146, Barrio FlamencoUTVs and golf carts787-525-5456

One rule worth knowing before you book a cart for a family: UTV Rental Puerto Rico does not allow children under 4 feet 9 inches on its golf carts.

What a “taxi” means here

It usually means a público — a shared van, not a metered car.

Públicos are ordinary public transportation across Puerto Rico. The island’s tourism agency describes them as vans running regulated rates from designated pickup points, shared with whoever else is going the same way, and warns that most públicos and taxis do not accept credit cards.

On Culebra that is what meets the ferry at Dewey: a row of vans running the short hop out to Flamenco Beach and back. On Vieques the same arrangement connects the ferry dock with Esperanza on the south coast, where most visitors stay.

Two practical consequences:

  • Carry cash, in small bills. Assume no card reader anywhere in this chain.
  • Agree the fare before you get in. It is a fixed per-person rate rather than a meter, so the number the driver gives you is the number everyone in the van pays.

Golf cart or jeep

It depends which island you are on, and the two are not interchangeable.

QuestionCulebraVieques
What people rentGolf cartJeep or other high-clearance vehicle
WhyShort distances, and most of what you want is on one roadThe island is spread out and the roads to the eastern beaches are rough
When to bookAheadAhead, and earlier than you think

These are fleets of a few dozen vehicles, not a few hundred, and a holiday weekend empties them. Call two or three when you book the ferry, not when you land.

Without a car on Vieques, the evening that needs planning is the bio bay. Most tours meet in Esperanza, and at least one meets at the Sun Bay entrance, so staying in Esperanza puts it within walking distance or a short público ride. The Mosquito Bay page has the new-moon dates and the tours that leave from the island. Coming over from San Juan for the bay and going back the same night? The ride from Esperanza to the 9:30 PM ferry is the part to arrange first, and Mosquito Bay from San Juan in a day has the operators that plan for it.

Driving east on Vieques: the part with rules

The eastern end of Vieques is the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge, and it has real restrictions that a rental jeep does not exempt you from.

The US Fish & Wildlife Service states that a major portion of the eastern refuge is closed to the public because of unexploded ordnance and the clean-up still under way. Its rule for those areas is that they “shall not be visited by land or sea at any time.”

In the areas that are open — and they are open, year round, with no entrance fee:

  • Driving off road is prohibited. So are camping, open fires and drones.
  • Marked trails lead out to beaches including Caracas, Playuela and Corcho.
  • If a road is gated or signed, that is the answer. Do not go around it, and do not pick anything up.

Check fws.gov/refuge/vieques before an east-end day, because which areas are open moves with the clean-up. The refuge office is on 787-851-7258.

Culebra’s refuge is a separate unit with its own hours: public areas and hiking trails are open daily 6 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Between the two islands

There is no ferry you can book from one island to the other. In practice you go back through Ceiba on two separate tickets, with no guaranteed connection between them. Otherwise it is a private boat, or Vieques Air Link, which serves both airports but warns that any flight may make one or two stops on the way. How to get from Vieques to Culebra works the connection out on the timetable, and says why one island is usually the better trip.

Flying instead

Both islands have airports. Cape Air flies to both from San Juan’s main airport, SJU, and Vieques Air Link flies from Isla Grande in San Juan and from Ceiba.

It is a different order of money from a $2 ferry ticket. It is also a 20- or 25-minute hop instead of an hour on a boat you had to reach an hour early, and on a two- or three-day trip that difference can pay for itself in recovered afternoon. The carriers, the airports and the very different bag rules are on the flying page.

Then plan the fun part

Quick answers

What is a público?

A shared van that runs as public transportation all over Puerto Rico. Puerto Rico's own tourism agency describes them as vans with regulated rates and designated pickup points, shared with other passengers, and notes that most públicos and taxis do not take credit cards. On Vieques and Culebra they are what people mean when they say "taxi" — you are unlikely to get a metered car to yourself.

Can I bring my rental car on the ferry to Vieques or Culebra?

No. Puerto Rico Ferry says you may not purchase a vehicle ticket for a rental car, requires a driver's license and a matching registration to buy one at all, and says vehicles can only be brought onboard if they are owned by a resident of Vieques or Culebra. Most mainland rental agreements separately forbid taking the car off the main island. Rent on the island instead.

Can you rent a car at the Vieques ferry?

Yes. Coqui Car & Island Jeep Rental's office is about 100 feet from the ferry port in Isabel Segunda, and Maritza's Car Rental and Vieques Car Rental both pick up and drop off at the ferry dock and the airport. Book ahead either way.

Where do you rent a golf cart on Culebra?

Jerry's Jeep Rental is across the street from the airport, Carlos Jeep Rental is on the road to Flamenco Beach and at the airport, and UTV Rental Puerto Rico has an office in Barrio Flamenco. All three rent golf carts.

How old do you have to be to rent a car on Vieques?

25 at Vieques Car Rental, which also sets a minimum age of 10 for anyone riding in its golf carts and authorizes a $500 damage deposit on a card for a cart, with no cash deposits. Ask each company for its own rule when you book.

Golf cart or jeep?

On Culebra a golf cart is the normal rental and it covers the distances people actually drive. On Vieques the island is far more spread out and the roads out to the eastern beaches are rough, so a jeep or another high-clearance vehicle is the usual choice. Book either one ahead — both islands run out on holiday weekends.

How much is the van from the ferry dock to Flamenco Beach?

It is a fixed per-person fare, paid in cash to the driver, not a meter. Ask it before you get in and carry small bills.

Can you fly instead?

Yes. Cape Air flies to both islands from San Juan's main airport, SJU, and Vieques Air Link flies from Isla Grande in San Juan and from Ceiba. It costs many times the $2 ferry fare and takes a fraction of the time, which on a short trip can be the better trade.

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